Romping and Nguyening

Chefchaouen

Posted on April 17, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

The ferry from Algeciras (Europe) to Ceuta (Africa) was more expensive than the ferry from France to England, but we knew the low cost of living + adventures would more than make up for the €225 ferry ride. And we were right even with our first day in Morocco en route to Chefchaouen.

First, the ferry ride. It was only a 1-hour ride, and it was 8am, so we just stayed in the RV. There were also only two vehicles in the entire ferry.

Second, the border crossing from Spain into Morocco. Considering we didn’t do any research beforehand, I consider ourselves quite lucky to have crossed the border without too many hassles. Maybe it was too early in the day for all the touts. We did accept help from one non-pushy English-speaking tout, who ended up being incredibly helpful. He gave us the forms we needed, walked us over to the correct officials, and explained what documents and vehicle papers we needed to present. €4 and less than 30 minutes later, we were on the road again.

And third, money. Pulling out dirhams (DH) from an ATM wasn’t the issue; it was the toll booth we crossed before pulling out the cash that was. The toll was 11 DH ($1.14) but we did not have a single dirham. Toll booth dude wouldn’t take euros, not even a small bribe (amazing, huh?!). He suggested we back out of the toll booth barrier, pull off to the side, and wait for the next driver to come by. There was absolutely no one around, but within a few minutes we saw a car approaching the booth. Chris was eager to wave them down with one hand, holding a €10 note in the other hand.

After a quick conversation (we are both so grateful that Chris can get by on French) and a money exchange, we pulled up to the toll booth again. “Welcome to Morocco!” he smiled as he lifted up the barrier. Ha, no shit.

We pulled out cash at the next major town of Tetouan and slowly zig-zagged up the windy mountain roads to Chefchaouen. When I pictured Africa, I did not picture lush green mountains and cool, fresh air. We weren’t too far from the Mediterranean after all–it was beautiful!

When we arrived, the town was alive and bustling–it was Sunday, market day. Parking wasn’t a huge endeavor because Chefchaouen was merely a relaxed mountainside town. Gawks, stare-downs, and shy waves of hello were the norm between us (the two tourists in a big, old RV with German plates) and the locals, and after more moments of awkward eye exchanges, we parked not far from the famous old town of Chefchaouen. Now we could finally wander its famous blue streets.

Ready for pictures of an incredibly beautiful town? It’s almost unimaginable…

We even found an awesome spot in the village to spend the night, with a view overlooking the blue city.

Getting lost in Chefchaouen’s old blue city was definitely the highlight of the area, although we also enjoyed getting off the beaten path to hike to the summit of Jebel El-kelaa. Roundtrip was about 5 hours. I highly recommend downloading the map of Morocco from the maps.me mobile app and following the trail.

And finally, the food. We had no idea what Moroccan food meant prior to coming to Morocco, and boy, were we in for a surprise! Moroccan food = DELICIOUS. The 1 DH (10¢) bread that everyone sold is comparable to focaccia bread…light, fluffy, and delicious. Even snails from street stalls were tasty. Hot, flaky crepes with honey. Mint tea, the national drink. But perhaps the best were the Moroccan sandwiches. Oh man. I thought Vietnamese bánh mì were the most delicious ethnic sandwiches, but now I’m conflicted. For less than 20 DH ($2.20), we were able to get a tasty sandwich with a side of fries. We had sandwiches stuffed with cumin chicken, mashed potatoes or even French fries, roast beets, carrots, chili sauce, and so much more. Amazing.

Chefchaouen was not only bluefully beautiful, it also carried the relaxed atmosphere of a mountainside town. Sure, there were still touts, but they were not as aggressive or annoying as they are known to be like in the major cities of Fes and Marrakesh. Good people and good vibes made it difficult to leave, but we were ready to dive into the hustle and bustle of Morocco.

Posted in Morocco | Tagged jebel el-kelaa | Leave a comment

The Algarve Beaches

Posted on April 14, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

Despite having been born and raised in beautiful beach-spoiled California, I knew we had to see the famous Algarve beaches in Southern Portugal.

They did not disappoint.

In addition to the gorgeous weather we were fortunate to have, the main highlights I did not expect were:

There were no beach resorts. Just laid-back towns. This meant no crowds, no large buses, no street vendors, no restaurant-lined streets with annoying touts, and extremely limited parking. As a result, visitors were truly able to relax and explore the area.
There were endless hiking trails. With a brief glance at the map, it seemed as if all the beaches in Southern Portugal were connected by trail. I had the time to hike the trails at both the beaches we visited, and it took 3x longer than it should have due to the incredible cliff views. Because we were there in early April, it wasn’t hot enough for me to want to sunbathe on the beach. Hiking the trails was perfect, and I was thrilled to have that option instead of hanging out on the beach.

The first beach was Praia do Camilo. We arrived at 1pm, just before everyone else could arrive, which meant we easily found parking in its tiny lot. Gorgeous beach, isn’t it?

I didn’t stay too long at this small beach. I spent more time hiking the cliffs above.

Later that afternoon we arrived at Praia de Benagil, famous for its beach caves. Because we arrived just when everyone else was leaving, we easily found parking along its incredibly steep streets. What lured me (and everyone else) to this beach was this famous beach cave; however, upon arriving I quickly learned that it would cost €17.50 for a boat tour to only see the cave from the exterior. In only perfect weather (low tide, calm conditions) could the boat go inside the cave, and even then, people wouldn’t be allowed to step out of the boat. In other words, no one could actually step foot in the cave unless you kayak there yourself.

Praia de Benagil wasn’t attractive at all; it was the hike to the neighboring Praia da Marinha that was spectacular. Numerous sinkholes dotted the hike, allowing us to look down into the beach caves from above.

Praia da Marinha did not disappoint. This was perhaps the most stunning beach of all in the Algarve.

Best of all, we found a bunch of motorhomes parked along dirt trails near Praia da Marinha. Excited, we hurried back to our motorhome back at Praia de Benagil and moved over to our camp spot for the night.

Watching the sunset over the beach, feeling the warmth of the ocean breeze flow through the window, and sipping on a cold beverage are moments that make campervanning worth it. True freedom and adventure.

The next morning we properly explored Praia da Marinha.

And we even made time for the Cemetery of Anchors at Praia do Barril. To be honest, the beach and the cemetery weren’t that spectacular.

In a nutshell, the Algarve Beaches are not to be missed in Portugal. Even I’m a California beach snob and Portugal’s beaches still wowed me. And forget the actual beaches; it’s the hiking trails from above that will allow you to appreciate its beauty.

Posted in Portugal | Tagged praia da marinha, praia de benagil, praia do camilo | Leave a comment

Sintra

Posted on April 12, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

Anything you ever imagined about castles and fairytales can be found in Sintra, less than an hour’s drive west of Lisbon. Perched high atop a hill and overlooking the Atlantic to the west and Lisbon to the east, its fairytale setting draws day-trippers from Lisbon by the thousands. For the majority of the visitors, the incredible maze of super steep cobblestone hills prevents walking from site to site, resulting in a headache of giant buses and grumbling tuk-tuks on the paved roads. But for the avid hiker a daypack, water bottle, and good shoes are enough for hiking from each site via the ancient paths and trails. Unbeknownst to the majority of tourists, the trails through the wooded forests and gardens offer a glimpse into local life and gorgeous views of the city. Honestly, exploring Sintra by foot rather than bus is the way to go.

Due to insane traffic, dizzying streets, too many tourists, and not enough parking, most tourists come and leave by bus or train. We had no choice but to drive because of our motorhome, but we learned that parking was easy before 9am or after 7pm once the tourists are gone for the day. Fortunately we found a central and free parking lot just below the National Palace (not for vehicles longer than 6 meters!).

We began our first full day in Sintra by visiting the incredible garden of Quinta da Regaleira, just a 20-minute walk from the town center. As we were the first tourists through the gate at exactly 10am, we had the mesmerizing Inception Well all to ourselves. For only €6 per person, I’d say this site was the best bang for the buck.

Dark tunnels led us from one well to another, although the second well was unfinished.

The garden’s chapel and manor:

After 1.5 hours at the garden, we walked back into town, lunched in the motorhome, and set out again for a longer and scenic 3-km hike up the hill to the Moorish Castle. We hardly saw any tourists along the winding trails, and even enjoyed the distant sound of a flute in the woods. The Sintra National Palace looked gorgeous from above:

For €8 per person, we sauntered along the high ramparts of the castle that overlooked the city below and the Palacio Nacional da Pena above—allow at least 40 minutes to explore this castle. The Moorish Castle was exactly the castle you dreamt about in your childhood or saw in fairytales—twisty ramparts with crenellations and towers.

Just another 800m up the road from the Moorish Castle was perhaps the most iconic landmark of Sintra, the Palacio Nacional da Pena. With its bright yellow tower, baby blue walls, and bubblegum pink tower, this whimsical piece of work was perhaps the most Disneyland-like castle I’ve ever seen. As the highest landmark in all of Sintra, the drifting clouds above also added to the experience. For €14 per person, the price was a bit steep, but still worth it. (Tip: We discovered later that you can purchase a combination ticket for the Moorish Castle and the Pena Palace for €20, which would have saved €2 per person. Just sayin’!)

Our favorite view of the palace was from a random trail we found in the park:

The palace up close, with Islamic features:

Even the interior was glorious yet whimsical, with its Islamic ceilings and fantastical chandeliers and statues.

We visited perhaps the 3 most popular sites of Sintra in a day and were exhausted by the end of it. Any more sites would have required an additional day. By the time we finished hiking from site to site and spent even more time exploring them, we had a pretty damn good day of hiking. In a sense, Sintra was kind of like Disneyland—crowds of tourists come for the magical castles and gardens and leave at the end of the day because that’s all there is to it.

Posted in Portugal | Tagged moorish castle, pena palace, quinta da regaleira | Leave a comment

Lisbon

Posted on April 10, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

Most Americans flood the cities and towns of France, The UK, Southern Spain, Italy, and Germany, bringing back photos and stories from the same recognizable monuments. Little is to be said of continental Europe’s westernmost country, but now after a brief sample of Portugal, I feel the need to shed light on Portugal’s stunning regions. Portugal’s attractions are not just only underrated, but they are extraordinary and unique to Europe. I know when I’m back in the states, I won’t be raving about the same ol’ Paris, London, Amsterdam, Barcelona, or Rome. Instead, I’ll be enlightening my friends with Portugal, especially the gem of Lisbon.

The petit, coastal country of Portugal seemed to have a strong motorhome culture, so strong, that there had recently been a crackdown on the motorhomes along Lisbon’s Tagus river. But despite all the signs, motorhomes continued to park in the PARKING-EXCEPT CARAVANS lots in Lisbon’s neighboring Belem. We, along with a dozen others, free camped in Belem for a couple nights without any issues.

Staying in the less-touristy town of Belem more than suited our needs. Two blocks away from the lot was the country’s most famous custard tart shop, Pasteis de Belem. For €1.05 per tart, hot and fresh from the oven, it’s no wonder that they serve 30,000+ tarts per day! Tourists from Lisbon flooded its doors all day long, but we had the convenience of strolling over any time of day, even for breakfast!

Also down the street from us was the famous Tower of Belem, once a defense structure along the Tagus river and a symbol of the gateway to Lisbon.

And finally, one of the most notable landmarks of the area, the Jeronimos Monastery:

Once in Lisbon, I was immediately struck by what was near impossible to find in Paris–head-spinning vista points everywhere. Like San Francisco, Lisbon was a tangle of steep streets and colorful buildings, boasting viewpoint after viewpoint. Hours could be spent walking around the city from mirador to mirador, admiring the different panoramas each stop had to offer.

Our favorite viewpoint was from the city’s highest mirador, the Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte. From the far left of the panorama, the Castelo de Sao Jorge stood tall with pride, and to the far right, the 24 de Abril Bridge gleamed like San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge.

Speaking of the bridge, the 24 de Abril Bridge looked identical to the Golden Gate Bridge in terms of color. But structurally, it was more comparable to Oakland’s Bay Bridge. Unsurprisingly, we discovered that it was the same architect who worked on both the Bay Bridge and the 24 de Abril bridge! Strolling, jogging, and biking along the riverfront was clearly an enjoyable activity for everyone. This bridge was only a 20-minute walk from Belem.

Also like San Francisco, old, charming street cars ran along the city streets, including up the steep, narrow hills. Tourists lined up for Tram 28 the same way tourists line up for Powell and Hyde Street cable cars. Because the line wasn’t horribly long the early evening we rode Tram 28, we waited and finally hopped in for the ride. While we enjoyed the ride, I can’t recommend waiting more than 20 minutes for the 40-minute round trip tram ride around Lisbon.

Lisbon’s Castelo de Sao Jorge seemed to be the primary attraction, but after I discovered the castle was merely nothing more than a mirador and not a museum/castle, I stuck with enjoying its exterior from afar, particularly from the Carmo Convent.

From the city streets, we enjoyed wandering through the steep, narrow cobblestone alleys, dodging tuk-tuks and the Portuguese drivers whom we consider nutso for even driving and parking on the mess of streets.

My favorite cafe was Cafe da Garagem, perched on a steep hill with jaw-dropping views. With plenty of electrical outlets, comfortable seating, lamps, pleasant music, and inexpensive prices, everyone lingered longer than they planned.

I keep raving about the gorgeous miradors. At the bottom of the hills, even the plazas were a delightful site, particularly the Praco do Comercio along the river.

Also eye-catching was the Rossio Square, particularly its spiral-tiled floor.

And further north was the city’s aqueduct!

Honestly, I don’t know if I loved Lisbon because it was so strikingly beautiful and typically doesn’t see as many tourists as other mainstream European cities, or because it reminded me so much of home (San Francisco). Either way, a trip to Lisbon and its surrounding area (which is basically the whole country considering it’s so damn small) will promise everything: a gorgeous city, fairytale castles in neighboring Sintra, and the famous beaches in the south.

Posted in Portugal | 3 Comments

Central Spain

Posted on April 8, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

One option to road tripping Spain was to drive along the entire coast, which would include Portugal’s scenic coast. But I couldn’t pass up the trio cluster of cities in central Spain: Segovia, Madrid, and Toledo…Segovia for the ancient Roman aqueducts, Madrid for the lively cultural modern-day capital, and Toledo for the stunning fusion of religious structures. Situated only a 1-1.5 hours drive apart from each other, visiting all three cities was convenient, easy, and surprisingly unique enough to differentiate themselves from one another.

Segovia was the first stop after Picos de Europa. Even parking was a Spanish experience; there was a free RV parking lot located at Segovia’s old bullfighting ring.

From the bullfighting ring it was an easy 20-minute walk to the ancient Roman aqueducts. We were even able to see the beginning (or end) of the aqueduct.

Pictures of Segovia’s historic highlight already wowed me, but pictures did not do justice to the real-life experience. Gazing up at its towering arches and marveling at its expansive length was surreal.

Other historic Segovia highlights included the Alcazar, once a royal palace that is now a military museum. Its grandiose features were best viewed from afar.

Segovia’s Cathedral, the last gothic cathedral built in Spain, looked incredible from afar and up close.

Other attractive buildings included the Iglesia de San Andreas and Iglesia de San Esteban:

Walking from the south end of historic Segovia (the aqueducts) to the north end (the Alcazar) took much less time than expected–it was a tiny town after all! Albeit compact, the variety of historic buildings and structures kept me entertained for the half day we spent there…but it was nothing compared to Toledo (more on that later)!

Next up was Madrid, the vivacious and bustling capital of Spain. We parked our RV at a free parking lot here, and took the metro in.

To be honest, Madrid is a large, sprawling city…and is pretty much just that. Lively people such as locals, tourists, and tacky street performers fill the busy streets and plazas.

I stumbled upon El Oso y El Madroño at Puerta del Sol.

Madrid’s main plaza was perhaps the blandest plaza I’ve seen in all of Europe. Maybe I’m spoiled by Brussel’s flamboyant plaza.

Madrid’s Royal Palace and the cathedral across from it:

The Palace of Communication (welcoming refugees–YAY!):

Retiro Park is fantastic, especially on a gorgeous day.

The nearby Puerta de Alcala:

Of course, we found aspiring bullfighters practicing their routine at a park.

We made a quick visit to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, primarily for Pablo Picasso’s famous Guernica. Free admission was offered 7-9pm on weekdays, and Sundays 1:30-closing.

Aside from plazas and the few ornate buildings, what Madrid truly had going for itself was its food…and by food I mean tapas. Free tapas. Lots of free tapas. Thanks to this site we basically filled up our tummies at the cost of cheap beer/cider.

In most if not all tapas bars, the bar man will hand-carve fresh ham directly from a pork leg. These giant slabs of pork leg, by the way, could be found dangling in storefront windows throughout Madrid. YUM!

A special tapas bar slightly out of Madrid, Casa Pepe, is known for its delicious dry-fried chicken wings. And it’s not just because their wings are tasty, but because people throw their chicken bones and napkins onto the ground. The filthy floor alone made our trip out there worth it. (But €6.30 for 3 plates of wings and 4 drinks was worth it too.)

In addition to tapas, it was far too easy to indulge on chocolate and churros. Chocolateria San Gines is dangerously open 24 hours.

Madrid fulfilled any expectation that comes with the big city life, with the major upside being food. (There was also a surplus of art museums and all-night-long nightclubs if that’s your thing.) However we ended up cutting our time in Madrid short and immediately set off for Madrid’s old capital, ancient and captivating Toledo.

Beyond Toledo’s medieval walls were breathtaking views of the city–the winding river that hugs the walls, the cathedral that pokes the sky, and the strategic alcazar that towers over the city. Even on an overcast day, the views were striking. Photos from a sunny afternoon showcase even more magnificent scenery.

Like in Segovia, we didn’t bother driving into the city. That would have been a nightmare. There was free RV parking just below the alcazar outside the medieval walls.

With its maze-like streets twisting and turning every few meters, getting lost was not only expected but entertaining. More importantly, Toledo’s dazzling history of Muslim, Jewish, and Christian faiths flourishing after one another meant a fine collection and fusion of mosques, synagogues, and cathedrals which meant there were simply too many sites to visit. This resourceful site helped me determine which landmarks to visit, and also became my guide throughout the city.

The Cathedral of Toledo, Toledo’s most important structure and one of Spain’s most significant Christian landmarks (also with the longest lines in Toledo!):

Cristo de la Cruz, an Arab mosque in the year 999 which was later converted to a Christian chapel in the 12th century:

Iglesia de Santiago del Arrabal, an Islamic-style structure that is now a church:

Between Segovia, Madrid, and Toledo I was content with enjoying most landmarks from the exterior. We couldn’t squander our money on all the historical landmarks; we are budget travels after all. Our money ended up being more happily spent at the next bar…mas tapas y cervezas por favor!

Posted in Spain | Tagged madrid, segovia, toledo | Leave a comment

Picos de Europa

Posted on April 5, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

People rave about the national parks of the U.S., Patagonia in South America, the whole country of New Zealand, and the French/Swiss Alps. No one speaks of Picos de Europa, and I don’t know if that’s a good or bad thing. I’m amazed little is known about Spain’s 2^nd largest national park, but for now, I’ll assume the unknown is a good thing in order to keep this special place a secret.

Unlike major national parks in the U.S., Picos de Europa does not have a fee booth. As a matter of fact, what makes Picos de Europa so special is the number of villages scattered within the mountains. These are not campsites or refugios, but year-round villages with cafés, restaurants, and lodging. Hikers can literally hike from one village to the next, taking breaks for local sidra (cider), cheese, and chorizo. Most villages have roads, but there are still some villages with only foot trails, making them incredibly remote. No permits or reservations are needed at this park; hiking and camping only requires time and energy, as it should be.

It wasn’t until we crossed the French-Spanish border into San Sebastian that we made the spontaneous decision to visit Picos de Europa. Cities, both large and quaint, had filled our itinerary the past 1.5 months of road tripping, and the need for fresh air, snow-dusted mountains, and lush woods was strong. Although weeks could be spent backpacking the circuits and stopping in and out of the mountainside villages, we only had a couple days in the park before heavy rainfall could arrive. We ended up hiking the park’s famous Cares Route (an extended version of it which I’ll explain later), and the trail to the village of Bulnes. Because it was early spring, the Fuente De cable car wasn’t running regularly, so riding up/hiking down wasn’t an option. Another popular option was the trail around Lagos Covadonga, but again, we were limited by time and rain. No doubt, our time in the Picos de Europa was brief, but it was time well spent in Spain.

Our first stop before entering the park was majestic Riaño, a small community perched on a tiny peninsula between merging rivers.

After a brief stop, we continued our way into the park, pulling over for epic viewpoints.

Our final destination for the day was the town of Posada because it was the only town in the entire park that actually had a motorhome facility. For €8/night, we had electricity, water, dump, bathroom, and a lingering mule. And best of all, we had the whole place to ourselves. Yay, spring time!

The next morning we set out on a long hike along the Cares River. This is where I fudged the logistics. I read that the 25-km round-trip hike would take 6-8 hours. Well, it would have taken that long had we started our hike in the village of Cain or Poncebos. We started our hike from Posada (much further south) which tacked on an additional 20 kilometers round-trip! There was no way we could have driven the RV from Posada to Cain—the road was too steep (20% grades), and had only a single lane. Had I gotten my facts straight before the hike, we probably wouldn’t have started hiking at 10am. Oops.

Because most people hike the Cares Route between Cain and Poncebos, we had the entire lush green trail from Posada to Cain all to ourselves. Fresh spring rain and snowmelt meant gushing waterfalls, bright green grass, and fields of blooming flowers. It was quite the contrast of the main rocky Cares Route.

Posada:

Mirador del Tombo:

Mountains and fresh fields:

Looking down at Cain:

A mercado in Cain where we stocked up on snacks:

It became evident in Cain that people began their hike there rather than Posada. Hikers drove past us and parked in the village and followed signs for the Cares Route. This route literally carves a path between Cain and Poncebos, and at one point was the only way to travel between the two villages in the winter. Originally constructed for a hydroelectric sluiceway, the path is only several feet wide but hundreds and at times a thousand feet high above the river. The trail takes hikers through carved-out tunnels, zig-zags along the bends of the rocky slopes, and promises seemingly endless views of the trail. Waterfalls and the coursing river could be heard during most of the hike. And luckily for us, since we were hiking on a weekday in the spring, we only saw a couple dozen other hikers instead of the hundreds of hikers the summer typically sees.

The Cares River and tunnels hugging the gorge:

Perhaps the most photogenic tunnel:

A single rock-arch on the trail:

The hydroelectric sluiceway:

Wild goats everywhere!!!

Epic views down the gorge:

Poncebos Bridge, the turn-around point:

During the return hike we contemplated the remaining time and distance. Best case scenario we find a ride from Cain to Posada, saving us a painfully steep 10k walk. Worse case scenario we walk the 10k back to Posada, which would make the overall hike 45 km and we’d return past 9pm, definitely after dark. We knew we were capable of doing it. It would just suck. Well, long story short, we made it back to Cain, and scarfed down bread, cheese, and ham. There was literally no one in town, so we begrudgingly headed back to Posada. Exhausted, we trudged up the steep hills, practically all the way back until the last 2 or 3 kilometers until I spotted headlights coming our way. A nice couple gave us a ride back to Posada (they were spending the night there anyway), sparing our legs another 30 minutes of uphill walking. Needless to say, we were beat.

You’d probably be surprised that we hiked some more the following day. The day was too beautiful not to!

We drove deeper into the park, where hairpin turns and cliffs granted gorgeous views.

My favorite view of the park’s majestic limestone massifs was from the Mirador del pozu la oracion, not far from the town of Poo (yes, Poo):

We parked at Poncebos (ha, we had hiked there the day before!) for the Bulnes trailhead. This entire trail was a steady, rocky climb to the remote mountainside village of Bulnes. Until 2001 when a funicular was built into the mountain to funnel up and down visitors, the only way to Bulnes was by trail via foot or donkey. Hikers typically skip the funicular (which is an expensive ~€20 ride) and walk the trail. It took us exactly an hour to reach Bulnes, a village with a population of about 20 people. We passed probably about a half dozen people on the trail, but the restaurant in town was bustling with energy. Most people that day had ridden up the funicular—good economy for perhaps the most remote village in Spain.

Crossing the river at the start of the trail:

Looking back down at the valley:

Lots of goats there too:

Bulnes:

From a mirador in Bulnes, a view of Pico Uriellu, aka Naranjo de Bulnes, the park’s highest peak:

Looking down at Bulnes from the mirador:

Trails from Bulnes connect to the next town of Sotres, or up over steep ridges to other refugios that grant access to Pico Uriellu. It would have taken much more time and energy to continue hiking—much more than we had—so we ventured back down the trail to Poncebos. Thick clouds began to trickle in toward the end of our hike, indicating that the forecasted storm was on its way.

As we left Picos de Europa later that evening, with heavy rainfall pouring down around us, I re-envisioned the recent hikes to hold onto the beautiful image of the mountains and trails. Although I had no knowledge of Picos de Europa prior to arriving to Spain, I left with the same awestruck satisfaction that I gained upon completing hikes in Patagonia or even U.S. national parks. Our brief reunion with nature ended up being the refreshing break we needed from the well-trodden cities of France, and the last bit of fresh air before our immersion with the tour bus cities of Central and Southern Spain.

Posted in Spain | Tagged bulnes, cain, poncebos, posado, ruta de cares | Leave a comment

San Sebastian

Posted on April 4, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

Typically we try to avoid beach resort towns. Jacked prices, rip-offs, crowds, and heat top the list of reasons to steer clear from them. But with its convenient location across the Spanish-French border in Basque country, and with the brisk Easter Sunday weather beckoning us to play outdoors, we knew there couldn’t be any harm in dropping by San Sebastian. And we were glad we did.

Fortunately it was Easter Sunday, which meant free parking, and plenty of it. After parking in the neighborhood streets we stumbled upon Miramar Palace:

My favorite view overlooking Playa de la Concha was from the hill of Miramar Palace. Everyone including ourselves picnicked on the blooming fields of grass.

Thanks to the low tide, we were able to stroll along Playa de la Concha. Later at high tide all the sunset surfers would come out to play with the waves.

Monte Urgull, with its towering Jesus standing tall upon its peak, could be easily seen from the beaches. We figured we’d slowly make our way in that direction, and eventually up the hill.

As expected, the views looking down at San Sebastian from Monte Urgull were lovely.

San Sebastian is made up of two beaches: Playa de la Zurriola to the east and the larger Playa de la Concha to the west.

High-five, Jesus!

On the somewhat crowded tourist street at the bottom of Monte Urgull, the north end featured a basilica, and its south end focused on a gothic cathedral.

To my surprise, we didn’t spend any money in San Sebastian! Maybe because it was Easter Sunday, and numerous shops in the center were closed. Or maybe because it was our ignorance to San Sebastian’s world-famous gastronomy. Little did we know that the most gourmet tapas in all of Spain could be found in San Sebastian, and that the little city boasted a number of Michelin-starred restaurants. We weren’t hungry, but had we been equipped with that knowledge, we might have indulged on some fancy tapas.

It is no wonder why the Spanish and the French flood this little resort beach city during the warmer months of summer. Beautiful beaches, plenty of parks and walks, dramatic views, and wonderful food sound like an ideal, local getaway weekend. San Sebastian was definitely worth the quick detour on our road trip!

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Bordeaux

Posted on April 3, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

Contrary to many people may think, I lack cultural and geographical knowledge of most parts of the world. “You’ve never heard of Bordeaux?” Chris asked me. Nope. Perhaps that was why I enjoyed Bordeaux and its surroundings.

Unlike Paris, this large city did not reek of tourists and ridiculously long lines. Instead it was simply a beautiful and enjoyable city that had all the pleasures of France: quaint cobblestone streets, lovely bakeries and patisseries, and well-preserved architecture. In addition there were an abundance of young adults from the University of Bordeaux (one of the largest campuses in Europe), and no end to fancy restaurants as a result of the surrounding wine country. Bordeaux also happens to be the world’s wine producing capital, as winemaking in the region began in the 8th century.

Before arriving to Bordeaux, we drove through miles and miles of spring vineyards to St. Emilion, one of the favorite villages in the area.

A quaint, medieval town framed by vineyards, the little picturesque St. Emilion was the perfect postcard. Numerous chateaus and estates dotted the roads around St. Emilion, but instead of wine tasting, we simply enjoyed a stroll through town and lunch at a cafe. Spring meant the vines had not yet burst with green leaves, but the blue skies and blooming flowers more than made up for the naked branches.

Saint Emilion:

Later that afternoon we roamed the streets of Bordeaux. Like the locals, we lounged at the endless parks along the Garonne River.

College students lounging in parks within the city was a common site.

Historic Bordeaux:

There was no better way to end the day than with a French dinner of steak frites, fois gras, and red wine on a bustling cobblestone street, because how else would you end a day in French wine country?

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Tours

Posted on April 1, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

Rugged and striking Brittany might have dampened our quick stop in Tours, the staging area for the Loire Valley. This countryside valley was once the region where princes, dukes, and nobles erected chateau after chateau as their getaways, and as a result, there are now far too many chateaus to see within a single visit. Within the city of Tours, there appeared to be a strong white wine making industry, as seen by the number of signs for wine cellars and tastings along the roads. In fact, we even ended up spending a night for free on the property of a semi-retired winemaker outside of Tours en route to Amboise.

We parked beside another motorhome on his property.

Immediately upon parking, we greeted the French and English speaking winemaker who eagerly gave us a free tasting and tour of his cellar. Behind his home was a centuries old manmade cave used for making and aging wines.

There was no pressure to buy, but when he told us his most expensive bottle was €6, Chris happily took 4 bottles.

In a nutshell, it cost €24 for 4 bottles of wine, a place to park the RV for the night, and free water and electricity.

The next day we set out for my chateau of choice, which happened to be the most popular chateau in the area, Chateau de Chenonceau. From online photos, this 16^th century chateau seemed too beautiful for words. Stretching over a glossy blue river, its gleaming white walls topped with turrets and towers came right out of a fairytale. However in reality, the river was a murky green, and the entire castle needed scrubbing. Up close, the chateau was rather drab, quite the opposite of what I had expected.

With the adult entry fee of €13, I was able to stroll through the perfectly manicured garden and roam freely through the rooms within the chateau. To my dismay, I discovered that crossing the river (for the best photo opportunity) was only available in July and August. Because I had the time and energy, I ended up crossing the river, walking over the bridge on Rue de la Gare, and strolling along the trail to the other side of the castle. Total time walking around to the other side plus hanging out—about an hour. And to my dismay again, the view on the other side wasn’t exceptionally better. It was just tourist-free.

Chateau de Chenonceau looked better from afar, especially when framed by its gardens.

I even enjoyed the small hedge maze.

Several photos from inside:

I know there were plenty of other chateaus in the area I could have seen. However, the costs to seeing more would have easily added up, and moreover, my disappointment upon visiting the popular Chateau de Chenonceau hindered my desire to see more. Well, at least we had the opportunity to spend the night at a winemaker’s cellar. That alone made our trip to Tours worth it!

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Brittany

Posted on March 31, 2016 by Jean Nguyen

“You have to make it to Brittany,” a friend told me. Even my relatives in Lille highly recommended it. So I did a little reading and off we went to the Atlantic coast! And to our convenience, the highlights of Brittany happened to be not far from Lower Normandy. We toured a cluster of beautiful towns within the same area: the fortified town of Saint Malo, the fishing village of Cancale, and the medieval town of Dinan. Little did we know that we would end up being completely enamored by this northwestern region of France.

Of the three, we spent most of our time at Saint Malo. It’s no wonder why; the fortresses of the surrounding tidal islands, the 12^th century ramparts, the views of the city, and the beautiful beaches with clear waters all contributed to seemingly endless eye candy. Although I read the views are best at high tide, I preferred low tide because it gave us plenty of opportunities to explore the tidal islands.

Strolling along the ramparts:

Fort National at low tide, as seen from the ramparts:

Up close at Fort National:

The view of the city from Le Grand Be (only accessible at low tide from the city):

And from Le Grand Be, we were able to walk over to Le Petit Be:

The difference between low tide and high tide to Le Petit Be:

Hours after exploring Fort National, Le Grand and Petit Bes, and the ramparts, we cut back through town to roam the medieval streets. One amusing café I recommend is La Java; thousands of creepy dolls and puppets will stare at its patrons while they sip on beer or coffee. Swings replace bar stools at the bar, and the tap handles are baby doll limbs.

After a half-day at Saint Malo, we drove the short distance over to the seaside town of Cancale, famous for its oysters. We arrived early enough to be able to see the oyster beds, which have been cultivated along its shores for centuries. I recommend parking on the hill behind the WWII memorial (gorgeous views and plenty of free parking!).

Huge tractors drove up and down along the shallow oyster beds, farming as much as they could before high tide could creep its way back in. See the difference between low and high tide:

Beside the Cancale Lighthouse were the oyster stalls of Marche aux huitres, the go-to joint for the freshest (and cheapest!) oysters, straight from the farm. It seemed as if the oyster-filled trucks sold their oysters to these vendors before continuing down the road to sell oysters to the higher-end restaurants.

Imagine—a dozen oysters from €4? Amazing! The ultimate Cancale experience involves slurping super cheap oysters along the coast while watching the oyster farmers drive up and down the beach.

Sunset, high tide, a baguette, and local cider:

The next morning we soaked in the well-preserved medieval town of Dinan. Despite looking like nothing on the map, this little town was too adorable. Even the view from where we parked boasted medieval views (free motorhome parking, water, and dump at the local tennis club!).

All one needs to do in Dinan is to walk up and down the hilly cobblestone streets to enjoy the 15^th-16^th century timbered houses. This is what Dinan is known for.

It is also too tempting to sit outside for a café on a sunny day, poke into one of numerous bakeries, or dine in an adorable local restaurant.

Outside the fortified walls are beautiful bridges along the Rance River:

I knew that beautiful Brittany had more to offer, particularly along its craggy coastlines and forested countrysides. A surplus of charming towns and cities, islands, fortresses, castles, and even megaliths spread throughout the region, providing a lifetime of exploration. With limited time on our hands and the rest of France (and Europe) to discover, we were pleased with our sample of Brittany. We’ll even go as far as saying Saint Malo was one of the most memorable towns we’ve visited in Europe, if not our favorite in France.

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