Romping and Nguyening

Despite being Germany’s 2nd largest city, Hamburg doesn’t offer a whole lot for tourists, but as Germany’s largest port, Hamburg houses a pretty spiffy financial district, and more famously the seedy red-light district.  We only dropped into Hamburg briefly for a couple hours on our way to Amsterdam from Copenhagen, primarily to fulfill a childhood dream of mine: to eat a hamburger in Hamburg.  Really.

We found street parking near a subway and took the metro into the heart of Hamburg. First, the main square:

Then we walked over to Buck’s Sports Bar in the financial district to try their well-reviewed burgers.  Before arriving to Hamburg I actually took the time to research the best burgers in town.  Not to my surprise, there were plenty of travelers who had also hoped to eat a hamburger in Hamburg.  Reviewers raved about Buck’s Sports Bar, but we kept our expectations low because we didn’t think it would be possible to have a burger comparable to burgers back in the states.

Well, we were wrong.  The burger in Hamburg was incredible.

Every patron in the restaurant were clad in clean suits and chowed down their burger using a fork and knife.  We were the only customers who attempted to eat with our hands. Awkward stares came my way.

Because we all ate more than we should have and needed to walk off the calories, we slowly sauntered over to the seedy Reeperbahn neighborhood to get a glimpse of the red light district.  We knew there wouldn’t be much to see since it was a Tuesday afternoon (hookers’ weekend), but we got our fair share of laughter.  My favorite were the food chains.  McDonalds and Pizza Hut, anyone?

Before heading back to the RV, we made one final stop at the notorious block of Herbertstrasse.  The entrance:

The sign clearly stated that people under 18 are prohibited from entering, but it apparently also stated women are not allowed either.  My clueless self walked to the other side and saw a block full of little shops with large window displays.  I didn’t venture very far–a 40-something year old woman wearing nothing but a fish-net body suit stood up from her stool on the porch and angrily squirted water at me from a water bottle and yelled, “OUT! NO WOMAN!”  Apparently she was not just a prostitute, but the street guard.  I told Chris and another friend to walk to the end of the short block, and I’d meet them on the other side.  It didn’t take long to meet them again; every window front was vacant except for a hooker guard on each end of the block.  Normally the windows are filled with prostitutes luring prospective male customers into their rooms.  Remember, it was a Tuesday afternoon.  Hookers need their weekends too.

Still, we got a kick out of walking from one end of the red light district to the other end. The entire Reeperbahn neighborhood exploded with flashing lights, bars, clubs, sex shops, sex toys shops, and anything sex-related you can think of.  We were thoroughly amused.

We only squandered a couple hours at Hamburg, which was all I needed to fulfill my hamburger dream.  Nguyening!

I wonder how often Bremen is overlooked by Cologne and Hamburg, because I had never heard of it until I looked at a map for a place to stay in Northern Germany en route from Cologne to Copenhagen. As soon as I saw the charming buildings online, I knew I had to stop by. It resembled a cross between Munich and Rothenburg, an enchanting blend of neo-gothic and charming medieval architecture. Bremen was and still is a major port city as it is situated along a river that empties out into the North Sea. Our morning spent in Bremen was definitely a memorable and lovely one.

We spent the night at Reisemobilplatz Am Kuhhirten (€13 per night, €1 for toilet access, and another €1 for a 5-minute shower, free wifi, plus the RV extras), about 1.5 km from Bremen’s historic town square. Although there were only 3 RVs in February, I could tell this was a popular camping site in the summer based on the size of the lot.

In the morning we crossed the bridge and walked over into the heart of Bremen. Within minutes of crossing the bridge, we arrived to the striking Markt, bordered by a lovely cluster of buildings, the UNESCO World Heritage Bremen Town Hall and Roland Statue, and the St. Petri Cathedral.

The most eye-catching set of buildings at Bremen Markt:

With the Roland Statue (Bremen’s protector):

The Town Hall:

Just on the other side of the Town Hall was the small yet famous statue of Grimm’s Town Musicians:

Sadly, in the winter the towers of St. Petri Cathedral are closed. If you ever have the chance, climb to the top of the towers for an incredible view of the town. This is the dramatic cathedral:

Beyond the cathedral was the Wochenmarkt, basically a large, open-aired farmers market. All the fruits, cheeses, meats, and breads looked tasty.

Not far from the town square and market was the must-see Schnoor neighborhood, a windy and narrow cobblestoned street adorned with tiny shops and cafés.

There were cuter versions of the Musicians of Bremen statue too.

Like in Munich, I enjoyed walking through the Bremen Markt again and again, gazing up and around at the incredible architecture. And like in Rothenburg, I stopped frequently in the tiny streets to marvel at the charming buildings and window displays.

Let’s face it. There really isn’t a whole lot to do in Cologne.  It’s just another big city (Germany’s 4th largest) with plenty of shopping, restaurants, and museums.  And a handful of bridges and a zoo.  We also happened to be in Cologne on a Sunday, which is the worst day to explore any city in Germany because everything is closed.

First things first.  We spent our first night about 3 km north of the cathedral along the river, just down the street from the zoo, at a €10/night stellplatz (Reisemobilhafen Köln). Surprisingly, there were quite a few RVs when we arrived.  However, the next day when we strolled along the river into town, we discovered that there was cheap paid parking along the entire river Monday through Saturday, 8am-6pm, €0.50/hour, €4/day, €24/week, and free on Sundays!  What caught our eye was the number of RVs parked along the river.

One van parked with the spires of Cologne Cathedral in the distance:

When we returned to our RV after touring Cologne for the day, we quickly moved to this parking strip.  Because it was Sunday, we spent the night there for free.

The view from inside our RV:

And finally, the famous Cologne Cathedral.  This gothic cathedral puts any other cathedral to shame–it’s Germany’s most visited landmark!  From afar, it sticks out spectacularly, begging to be photographed as its two spires gives it the largest façade of any other church in the world.  Up close, the details from the sculptures, to the spires, and to door knobs are phenomenal.  I am by no means a religious person, but I, along with anyone else, can gawk at the wonders of its architecture and construction.

Walking around the outside:

A close up of details:

Inside, when a Sunday service was taking place:

We didn’t go on the €12/person tour, but we did climb the 509 steps up the South Tower for €2/person. Although we couldn’t see the largest working clanger in the world (it was kept hidden behind a locked door), we happened to be in the stairwell at the hour and we were able to feel the vibrations of the bell.  It was a dizzying way up the South Tower:

From the top, our rarely-felt fear of heights kicked in for both of us.  Looking down at the church and its spires was creepy as hell:

Looking up didn’t help either.

But at least looking out into the distance granted views of the city.

Perhaps the best time and place to view the Cologne Cathedral is at night when it is illuminated, and across the bridge.  On our way to the bridge:

To our delightful surprise, we discovered that the entire bridge wall was covered in love locks.  Never in our lives had we seen literally thousands and thousands of love locks.  It was quite the sight.

And here is the best sight of all:

Despite having a mouthful of a name, the historic town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber was tiny. But it didn’t matter that it was tiny. What mattered was how irresistibly adorable it was, and the fact its medieval façade wasn’t simply a show to lure tourists. This was the stereotypical Bavarian town, and I couldn’t wait to see it.

To our surprise, there was even a convenient stellplatz across the street from the south end of the walled town. With impeccably clean bathrooms, water (100 liters for €1), waste disposal, electricity, and a location just a stone’s throw away from the town, it was a deal at €10/24 hours to park our RV.

When the town was built in the Middle Ages, fortifications were constructed around the perimeter to protect the town from siege. These fortifications have been rebuilt since the destruction from WWII, and now they are free for anyone to roam and explore. Climbing up the primitive steps and strolling on the stone walls along the perimeter of the town made for an unique experience.

Gazing at the elongated, snow-dusted roof tops from the fortifications:

Towers stand at each of the entrances/exits:

Our favorite entrance was from the south end, not far from the stellplatz. It consisted of this round structure:

Crossing the small bridge:

A pano from within the round structure:

Wandering along the fortification and viewing the town from above was fascinating, but the reason why people come to Rothenburg ob der Tauber is to admire the quaint architecture on the cobblestone streets. I’ve always loved gingerbread houses and the aura of Christmas. From the stout proportions, to the latticework on the walls, to the itty bitty window shutters, to the warm colors on the walls, all the little details from gingerbread houses never fail to charm me. In Rothenburg ob der Tauber, it felt as if I was walking through a gingerbread town—it was Christmas year-round. There is a reason why this is considered the most romantic road in Germany.

Narrow walkways throughout town:

Jakobskirche, the town’s famous church:

At night, lights illuminate the buildings. I’m sure it would have been more beautiful had there been more snow.

The leisurely stroll from the south end to the north end of the town took approximately 30 minutes. It truly is a tiny town!

Because it was the low season, hardly any shops were open (they were all primarily touristy shops anyway), and only a handful of tourists wandered the streets. This worked well in our favor—fortifications and streets all to ourselves for photography! However, when the days are warmer and longer, locals dress in Bavarian attire and perform local festivities. Whichever season it is, tourists are guaranteed to be charmed by the cute town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

Here is a weird fact: the only three things I knew about Germany before my arrival were Oktoberfest, WWII, and the Neuschwanstein Castle.  I sampled a tiny bit of Oktoberfest while in Munich, I shuddered at the Dachau Concentration Camp, and now I fulfilled my dream of walking in a magical winter wonderland at the Neuschwanstein Castle.

I read that if you visit the castle in the winter, when the forests and rooftops are dusted with snow, it would be a magical experience.  Because we were already spending February in Germany, I knew we HAD to go.  Winter also meant the low season: empty parking lots, no lines, no pushing and shoving, and no worry about sold-out tours. In the summer tours do sell out, and it is recommended tourists purchase tickets a couple days in advance online.

The castle is roughly a 2-hour train ride from Munich.  Day trips can be done independently by train and bus, or with a tour agency.  But one of the reasons why we purchased a RV was for the freedom of traveling at our own schedule.  We left Munich in the evening, parked at a free Stellplatz half an hour’s drive away from the castle in Pieting, slept, got up,  and arrived to a mostly empty parking lot beneath the castle by 9:30am.

Beneath the castle at the bottom of the hill lies the village of Hohenschwangau, where tourists can purchase tour tickets for the Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles. It costs €12 to tour just the Neuschwanstein, or €23 to tour both castles.  We only opted to see the Neuschwanstein.  This is the Hohenschwangau Castle from afar:

From the ticket office we walked up the hill toward the castle.  The shuttle bus was closed due to snow and ice, but there was a horse-drawn carriage catered to tourists.  We didn’t think the walk was far or steep at all, and the walk was a beautiful winter wonderland:

Not far from the castle:

The castle up close:

Tours are a mere 30 minutes long, and photography is forbidden inside the castle.  Still, there was plenty to take pictures of, especially from the trails surrounding the castle. To my disappointment the Marienbrücke bridge and the trails around the castle were closed for annual winter maintenance. Admiring the Neuschwanstein from the bridge to get that epic photo was one of my main reasons for visiting!

Fortunately there were several trails leading up to Marienbrücke; the trails closer to the castle were clearly gated with a No Trespassing sign, but the trails from the bottom of the hill weren’t gated off.  Determined to get the epic shot, we hiked up a vacant, alternative trail that led up to Marienbrücke.

When we reached the top of the hill, we stumbled upon another No Trespassing sign.  However, there were already a couple other people equally as determined as we were to see the view. Whether or not they actually saw anything spectacular, it didn’t matter.  They headed down, and we headed up past the sign.  There was even a maintenance worker watching us trespass, but he didn’t care. 

After easily circumventing a small barbed wire fence and walking up a short, slippery hill, we discovered exactly what we were searching for at the edge of a cliff.  This:

Some more pics:

We even saw amazing views of the other castle from the top.

Normally during the high season the trails and Marienbrücke bridge are open.  During the winter, we had to get a little creative to see the breathtaking landscape surrounding the Neuschwanstein.  It was this view that made the whole trip worth it.  Don’t skip Marienbrücke, even if takes a bit of determination. =)

I never knew that Munich, nevermind Germany, exploded with culture. Even in mid-February, the opposite time of year from the world famous Oktoberfest, locals and especially tourists filled the air (primarily beer gardens) with the boisterous festivities known to Bavarian culture. I’ve already mentioned that I’m not fond of beer, but in Munich, beer is not a beverage but a staple, like bread. Beer in Munich is not only integral to their culture—it is the reason why people visit. To avoid beer in Munich would be like avoiding pizza in Italy. Blasphemy!

Two of the closest options to Munich where we could park our RV (that didn’t have too terrible reviews) were a free stellplatz near the Dachau Bahnhof station, or at the Allianz Arena (football stadium) for €15/night.  Because both locations were approximately the same distance by metro from Munich (25-30 minutes), we opted for the free one.  There was probably only enough room for 4 RVs max, but because it was February, the lot was pretty empty the entire time we parked there.  The only real downside was that the parking lot was literally beside the metro station, which meant loud subways throughout the night.  We couldn’t complain–it was free! That’s what earplugs are for.

Most people will probably begin their visit in Munich with Marienplatz, the center plaza of Munich like Times Square is to New York City. However, unlike Times Square, there are no angry taxi drivers, flashy lights, and 50-story tall digital fashion ads. Instead of those gaudy adornments, the centerpiece of Marienplatz is the neo-gothic New Town Hall and haunting Glockenspiel. My jaw dropped as I emerged from the underground escalator with the Glockenspiel looming into view.

Just down the street from Marienplatz is the Church of St. Peter, which had spiral steps that we climbed for €2 each. Views of the Church of our Lady, New Town Hall, and Glockenspiel from the tower of St. Peter:

And just steps from the Church of St. Peter was Viktualienmarkt, the daily farmers market of Munich. We treated ourselves to fresh fruit and coffee, and refrained from all the gourmet cheeses, bread, meats, and all the other delectable goodness.

Strolling around Marienplatz led us to upscale shopping streets. Not really our thing, but we still enjoyed the architecture.

You can even buy fresh bread at the local sporting goods store! Because when in Germany…

We did stroll through the Englischer Garden to the Chinese Pagoda, hoping the oldest beer garden in Munich would be open for a bite. But alas it was the off-season (and freezing!), and because the beer garden was outdoors, everything was closed.

For dinner there were numerous beer gardens to choose from. We chose Hofbräuhaus for our first dinner because of its reputation—it’s always Oktoberfest there! It fulfilled everything I dreamed of a beer garden: a beautifully painted dining room, clanging 1-L mugs of beer, bigger-than-your-head pretzels with tasty mustard, sausages, noisy bands, sharing tables with strangers/new friends, and people of all ages cheering, laughing, and dancing.

I can’t even remember the name of the second beer garden we dined at, but we do recall being drawn in by their window display of rotating, sizzling pork knuckle.

Even ½ a pork knuckle was difficult for the two of us to finish.

Cheers!

We wandered around the center for dessert, and thanks to the recommendation of a local, we gave kaiserschmarrn (sliced and fried raisin bread with powdered sugar and apple sauce) a try. It was so yummy…similar to French toast!

When it was time to return to our abode, we gazed at Glockenspeil for the final time. We thought it was dramatic during the day, but the night brought theatrical lighting and elongated shadows to the structure. It was very much the setting for a horror film.

To top everything off, here is Glockenspeil with a giant pretzel. Now that is truly German.