Florence

In order to appreciate and enjoy Florence, one need not be an art historian or Renaissance buff.  Even with my disdain for art history after having spent years painfully scrutinizing art for my degree, I loved Florence. Florence is too beautiful for words, from its classic architecture, to the indoor and outdoor galleries, the scenic river with its bridges, the distinct skyline, and of course the famed duomo. To make things easier, all the wonders of Florence are packed within walking distance, which allows more time for enjoyment and less time for traveling. It’s a beautiful, tiny city bursting with magnificent history and eye candy.

We felt the best option for motorhomes was this parking lot. At €15/24 hours with security, water, and a dump, and a 30-minute walk from the center (there was also a direct bus line, but we never took the bus), it was an inexpensive and easy base to explore Florence.

Piazzale Michaelangiolo, the plaza boasting Florence’s best view, was only about a thirty-minute stroll from the parking lot. Gazing across Florence’s one-of-a-kind skyline with the duomo’s eye-grabbing dome was a marvelous introduction to the city. Also a bronze statue of David perched in the hilltop center of the piazzale.IMG_1575

At the bottom of the hill, several bridges crossed the Arno River into the heart of Florence, but one bridge stood out the most: Ponte Vecchio. One would never realize it was a bridge while crossing it due to the gold shops hugging both sides of the bridge and all the people hanging out, but once past the shops, the pretty views made it clear that the “street” was in fact directly above the river.

Florence’s striking and lively plaza, Piazza della Signoria, had so much to showcase. Palazzo Vecchio, a museum and government office, dominated the plaza with its tower, but the free outdoor gallery of Loggia dei Lanzi was more popular, and rightfully so. Other notable statues in the plaza included another David statue, and a modern statue of a golden turtle with a rider.

Just around the corner from Piazza della Signoria was the famous Uffizi Gallery, home to the world’s greatest collection of Renaissance art. Because I read that people could spend up to 4-5 hours waiting in line during peak season, I made sure to buy my tickets beforehand by calling the ticket office. Tickets at the time of writing were €16.50 each (with a reservation fee tacked on). People raved about this museum; personally, I think I could have lived without visiting it.

Wandering the city streets led us to the central market, where we found Italian delights such as truffles and truffle oils, calamari, pizza, sundried tomatoes, wine, bread, biscottis, and anything else delicious.

Of course, we chowed down on gelato and Florentine steak. It is said that the best and most inexpensive restaurant for Florentine steak is Trattoria Mario, where locals and tourists can be found sharing tables elbow to elbow. €40 for 1 kg of incredible steak, a plate of fries, and a beverage? Not bad. They normally served it rare, but we asked them to cook ours a bit longer. It turned out perfect.

More city strolling through Piazzale della Repubblica:IMG_1607

And finally, the best for last, the magnificent Gothic Duomo and its piazza! No photos or words could describe the beauty and grandeur of the cathedral. With the exception of Barcelona’s La Sagrada Familia, we felt that most cathedrals and basilicas followed the same-style architecture with dark brown colors, spires, and intricate sculptures on the façade. Florence’s duomo differed incredibly with its marble work and patterns, making it resemble blocks of candy.

A matching clock tower stood to one side, and a massive baptistery stood across from it. The baptistery’s most famous feature were its gilded-bronze doors, now housed in a museum—yep, those doors are now just replicas!IMG_20160512_143030

It used to be one could purchase separate tickets to climb the dome, or the clock tower, or enter the baptistery, but unfortunately that has changed to a single ticket option to visit all three sites for the price of €15. I wanted to climb the clock tower, but not that badly. Entering the duomo was free, but its bare interior was quite disappointing compared to its dramatic exterior. Looking up at the dome:IMG_20160512_142533

Dozens of other churches, galleries, and gardens dotted the streets of Florence, with some tucked quietly away in corners and some massively taking up city blocks. As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I’m not an art/art history buff, and I had no desire to see them all. It would take an unknown amount of time to see all of Florence’s treasures, and my little sample of Florence suited me just fine.

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Pisa

There isn’t a whole lot to do in Pisa except take the obligatory photo of the famous leaning tower.  Between our drive from Cinque Terre to Florence, Pisa was the perfect stop to kill a few hours.

The Tower of Pisa stands within a walled plaza called the Miracle Square, along with a cathedral and baptistry.  From afar the Miracle Square resembled a fort.IMG_1554

Directly on the other side of the walls stood the three highlights of the city.

The muffin-shaped baptistry, which required an admission fee to enter of course:IMG_1544

The cathedral, where it was possible to retrieve free, timed tickets to enter:IMG_1543

And finally, the leaning tower. I assumed the tower looked better from afar than within so we didn’t feel the need to pay, queue, and climb the tower.IMG_1531IMG_1529

We definitely got a kick out of watching everyone else striking a pose with the tower.IMG_1540IMG_1530

Just to give you a bit of history:
Construction began on the tower in 1173, but only 3 floors were built when it started to tilt due to a poor foundation.  Several years later construction ceased due to battles and funding.  Almost a century later, construction resumed, with walls having one side longer than the other to compensate for the tilt.  There was another brief halt and resume with construction, and the 7th floor was finally completed 1319 with the addition of the bell tower in 1372.  With its rate of tilting at ~1 mm per year, the tower reached 5.5º by 1990, but stability was added in 1998 to prevent further tilting.   Had it not been for the long period of time between the construction stages, the tower would have most likely collapsed.  The 3 stages of construction is evident in the tower, with the final piece of a flagstaff perpendicular to the ground.

We ventured out of the Miracle Square in hope to find more in the city of Pisa, but the stroll through the historic quarter and along the river was nothing more than a quick escape from large tourist groups and desperate sidewalk vendors.  The leaning tower surprisingly required very little of our time despite being so world famous–a good thing since that meant we didn’t waste too much time in Pisa. =)

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Cinque Terre

“Do you know where you’re going in Italy?”

We had just finished licking our mini plastic spoons at the city’s most famous gelato shop, Fenocchio, in Nice, France on a drizzly evening. Due to the abysmal weather, we planned to leave the French Riviera the next morning for the Italian coast. As we earnestly exchanged stories, tips, and photos on the shop’s tabletops, a new friend we made weeks earlier in Spain inquired of our future plans.

“No, we’ll figure it out when we get there,” I replied.

One of our typical replies, of course. After all, in the words of Rolf Potts, “a tourist doesn’t know where he’s been, and a traveler doesn’t know where he’s going.”

That’s when the whereabouts of Cinque Terre came to light. Ha, little did we know. Apparently everyone else knew. To be honest, we didn’t know much about Italy besides Venice and Rome. Cinque Terre ended up being our introduction to Italy, our surprise treat, and magical retreat along the Italian Riviera.

In 1999 Cinque Terre, or Five Lands, became Italy’s tiniest but most visited national park. Five picturesque villages along with its network of connecting trails and footpaths make up Cinque Terre: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Before tourism spread like wildfire, the region depended on fishing and growing grapes, evident in its centuries of terraced vineyards. Bright boats in the harbor and steep terraces of vineyards add to the iconic cluster of colorful buildings along the coast, making the viewpoints the highlight of Cinque Terre.

Each town is free to explore and enjoy, but to hike the coastal cliff trails requires a national park entrance fee of €7.50 per person for a single day. There are also other combinations, such as a one day park entrance fee + unlimited train pass for €16, which in retrospect we should have purchased since we ended up taking the train two times at a cost of €4 per trip. Live and learn!

Although a national park with overcrowded hiking trails, the majority of Cinque Terre’s visitors is probably not the hikers. A train linking all the towns along with numerous boat taxis and boat tours grant access to even the most weary. As a result this national park sees the unusual mix of hikers, backpackers, and tour groups with flag-waving leaders. To avoid the worst of crowds, we began our hike at 9:30am. It wasn’t as crowded as I expected it to be, even later in the day; I suspect May sees fewer visitors than the summer.

We began our hike from Monterosso due to its vicinity to this excellent motorhome site. Of the five towns, Monterosso is the largest, easily accessible, and has a sandy beach!

It took us about 1 hour and 15 minutes to climb up and over the hills to the next village, Vernazza. As expected, the village was incredibly picturesque, even with the sun behind clouds.

Lemon trees grow like weeds in Cinque Terre. Unfortunately they are sold for the astronomical price of €3.50/kg, or even €3.50 for a glass of lemonade! Though tempting, I couldn’t bring myself to pay €3.50 for a glass of water, sugar, and lemon juice.IMG_1459

The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia took us about 1 hour. The trail brimmed with late spring flowers, and the breeze carried the scent of orange and lemon blossoms.

Normally the flat “trail” from Corniglia to Manarola takes about 40 minutes to walk, but the trail was closed due to flooding (from 5 years ago) and the lack of motivation to quickly repair it. We were told there was an alternate footpath that connected the two villages, but we weren’t told that the footpath would be even more difficult than the first two trails we had already hiked between Monterosso and Corniglia. It took us about 1 hour and 30 minutes to traverse this brutal footpath, but the views were worth it. Wildflowers, orchids, centuries of terraced vineyards galore!

Once in Manarola, we sought out the best view of the village. This was perhaps my favorite panorama of all the villages within Cinque Terre.IMG_1506

And I grabbed a €8 cone of fresh fried calamari…turned out to be some of the best calamari I’ve ever eaten! Seafood is to die for in Cinque Terre. Oh, and gelato too!

And finally, one more village to go—Riomaggiore. The flat “trail” between Manarola and Riomaggiore normally takes only 20 minutes to cross, but unfortunately it was also closed. We grimaced at the idea of hiking at least another hour over steep terraces so we wussed out and bought the €4 train ticket to ride the 2 minutes to Riomaggiore. Compared to the hiking trails, the trains were packed, but the ride was short and we headed straight to the marina immediately upon arrival. The view of the marina with the backdrop of the colorful village did not disappoint.

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When it was time to return, we took the train from Riomaggiore back to where we started in Monterosso.  What took almost 4 hours from Monterosso to Riomaggiore only took about 15 minutes by train.  While most tourists probably only see the villages and consider those visits to be sufficient, I believe the highlight of Cinque Terre is the hike along the scenic coastal cliffs, a satisfying reward for those who break the sweat and endure the steep terraces.  We had only heard of Cinque Terre by word of mouth literally less than 24 hours before our arrival to the park, and we are thrilled to have experienced this coastal treasure of Italy.

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The French Riviera

Funny how this region sees on average 300 days of sunshine per year, because we saw plenty of clouds and rain during our visit.  But even with the less than stellar weather, even with my California-spoiled eyes, and even with my unfavorable opinion of beach resorts and glamor, I still found this place to be too beautiful for words.

The Côte d’Azur (or French Riviera in English) has attracted celebrities and the filthy rich for quite some time now, making it a tourist magnet.  Private yachts larger than military ships proudly bob in the marinas, grandmothers dressed like teenagers confidently strut along the beach in their painfully high heels, and everyone around dresses to impress–clearly, the people watching promises incredible amusement.

Two cities we visited along the French Riviera were Cannes and Nice, but we found that the most beautiful views were not the cities themselves, but the overlooks from the coastal drive.  Unlike California’s Highway 1, this coastal drive passed through handfuls of opulent towns with luxury condos and marinas full of private yachts.  While California’s coastal route was woodsy and rugged, the French Riviera was colorful and pretentious.

En route to Cannes:IMG_1348IMG_1351

The French Riviera didn’t seem to favor motorhome culture (motorhomes don’t exactly pair well with glitz and glamor), so we were forced to think creatively for parking. Luckily there was one service station in west Cannes at a Hyper Casino supermarket, and the streets all along that area had plenty of free parking.  We weren’t the only motorhome parked on the street, and there were plenty of convenient buses (Line 1) that took us into the heart of Cannes for €1.50 per person, one-way.IMG_1358

Coincidentally we arrived to Cannes just four days before the Cannes International Film Festival!  Stages and tents were being set up left and right.


Beautiful shopping neighborhoods and giant boats:

Street stuff:IMG_1379IMG_1378

The best view of Cannes was from the top of the historic quarter, which predates the modern-day classy Cannes:IMG_1360

And of course, the views from the beach were sweet too, particularly at sundown.IMG_20160507_210705

We were glad to have had a hint of sunshine in Cannes, because the weather worsened as we arrived to Nice.  Because Nice only had one decent option for motorhomes, one that was notoriously crowded, we left Cannes a bit early on a Sunday morning to arrive to this parking lot by 10am.  There was 1 spot remaining, just for us.  WOO!  But unfortunately buses weren’t running that day for whatever reason (typical France) so we had to walk 30 minutes to the train station to take the train into Nice.IMG_1385

From the train station we walked to the museum of contemporary art (MAMAC) to see Warhol’s original Campbell Soup Can, where it was supposedly free to enter.  Nope. Not free. But the Loch Ness Monster fountain out front was adorable.IMG_1386

From there we wandered through lovely city parks to the historic quarter of Nice, where bars, restaurants, and cafes were lively with people.  The must-go to eatery?  Fenocchio, the ice cream shop with dozens of unique flavors including tomato-basil (which I thought tasted like cold spaghetti sauce) and beer.  Our favorite flavor was Speculoos.IMG_1396

The must-do in Nice: a stroll along the Promenade des Anglais.  Unfortunately the weather prevented us from venturing too far along the curved beachfront. Despite the gray skies, the water still shimmered blue as ever.IMG_1392

Because the weather for the remaining week looked grim and the buses weren’t running, we decided to leave Nice for Italy.  As I mentioned earlier, the French Riviera’s most beautiful views were not from the cities, but from the coastal highway.  After navigating the windy roads and hairpin turns, we were rewarded with these views between Nice and Monaco:IMG_1407IMG_1417IMG_1419

Budget-minded travelers can’t spend too much time in Nice.  Not only would we need to be willing to break the bank, we would need to have a different mindset of wanting to be seen.  I’m not a glamorous girl, nor do I like to spend money on things I don’t find a great value, but I loved Nice for its beauty and diversity and I’d love to return during finer weather.  I’m sure the French Riviera would be even more beautiful.

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Les Calanques

Just before reaching the notorious French Riviera, we spent time hiking in one of France’s relatively new national parks, Les Calanques.  According to Wikipedia, a calanque is a narrow, steep-walled inlet found along the Meditteranean coast.  Five calanques make up this national park between the port city of Marseille and the resort town of Cassis, and the beaches at the end of each calanque were pristine and breathtakingly beautiful.  It is said to avoid weekends in order to escape the worst of the crowds, so we thought arriving on a Thursday would be fine.

Ha. Little did we know that the Thursday we arrived was the beginning of a French 4-day holiday weekend–Ascension Day. To top it off, we quickly learned that the southern coast of France isn’t particularly motorhome-friendly.  Getting to Cassis and Les Calanques was a stressful feat and I can’t recommend driving into town with a big vehicle unless you’re ready to dive into a cluster.

After making the mistake of driving into Cassis, we were forced to drive along steep, narrow, one-way roads congested with cars, pedestrians, scooters, and bicycles.  Every parking lot had a height limit of 1.8 meters, and the sole campground in town was full.  Even the recommended parking lot, Parking des Gorguettes, prohibited any motorhomes from parking there.  Luckily we found plenty of free parking available just east of the campsite at the roundabout, on Avenue des Albizzi.  Despite the No Parking sign, countless cars and another motorhome were parked along the street.  We parked there temporarily, and made plans to venture back into the heart of Cassis at night after the traffic mess died down.  Our goal was to park as close as possible to the park’s trailhead to get a head start in the morning.

Once we parked, we walked the 20 minutes into town.  The liveliness of Cassis that early evening made it evident that it was a French holiday; locals filled the beaches and street side cafes and restaurants, cars filled with young beachgoers and small families cruised through the crowded streets, and everyone was simply enjoying the warm sun and beauty of the Mediterranean.  IMG_1315

No matter how charming Cassis may had been, we weren’t there for the resort town. Ultimately we were there to hike through the national park to relax on the secluded beach, and we did just that the next day.  That night around 10pm we drove back into a deserted town with plenty of parking opportunities.  We found free parking on the wide, empty street of Avenue des Carriers, next to all the Petit Trains of Cassis!

In the morning we walked 20 minutes through town to the trailhead, which began with the first calanque, Calanque de Port-Miou.  This calanque is the most accessible calanque as a road hugs the east side of its wall, and is used as a port.

A short, easy stroll led us to the next calanque, Calanque de Port-Pin.  Many families ended their walk at this beach because it was far enough from the first calanque but still easily accessible, not to mention its gorgeous beach.IMG_1329

Avid hikers continued past this calanque, and hiked up the steep trail and down the even steeper gorge to the most beautiful calanque of all, Calanque d’En-Vau.  Plenty of rocks and loose scree lined the trail, but that didn’t deter the groups of 60-year-old hikers and families with their babies and toddlers who were determined to enjoy the beautiful outdoors.

Because we began our hike in the morning, we were rewarded with an almost remote beach of d’En-Vau.  Although extremely pebbly and rocky at the shore, visitors enjoyed the beach nonetheless and numerous rock climbers played in their wonderful playground of cliffs and walls.

Not long after noon, when the beach became overcrowded with the latecomers, we headed back out the park and back to Cassis.  A quick photo upon our departure:IMG_1326

Despite the park’s popularity, vicinity to a resort town, and the stress required to get there, we still enjoyed the hike along the rocky walls and found peace on the beach. Because access to the beach is limited to those willing to take a 1-hour hike or kayak, the beach and the calanques were truly something special.

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Nimes

Nimes and its surrounding area has some of the best-preserved Roman sites in the world, including an arena, a temple, and a spectacular aqueduct. Due to its convenient location between Spain and The French Riviera, we made the detour to view these stunning yet seldom visited sites.  At the time of writing, the arena is awaiting UNSECO site status; I do wonder if the ruins will be tainted by tourists in the future.

It is not recommended at all to drive into the city center.  We parked in one of the many giant parking lots not far from the arena, and took the tram for €2.60 each (roundtrip) from the Costieres-Parnasse station to the Arenes station.  Pretty easy and convenient!

Immediately upon stepping off the tram, the spectacular site of the Roman arena burst into clear view.  It cost €10 to enter the arena or €12 to enter the arena and the Roman temple.  To our surprise we learned that the arena continues to be used as a venue for concerts and festive bull fights.  It’d probably be cooler to experience the ancient arena through a show rather than a tourist ticket.  As always, we simply enjoyed the arena from the exterior.

Just a few minutes’ walk from the arena was the ancient Roman temple, a gleaming limestone temple representing classic Roman architecture.  Surrounded by a modern downtown, this temple definitely stuck out.

We waited until later in the day to visit Pont du Gard due to the information I had gathered.  Unlike the aqueduct smack in the center of Segovia, France’s famed Roman aqueduct spans a river amidst rural hills and woods about a 40-minute drive northeast of Nimes.  Unlike the arena, this aqueduct has attained UNESCO status, and as a result, it gets crowded and has the price tag of €18 per vehicle/up to 5 people.  What does the price include? Well, obviously access to the aqueduct, and access to the museum and shops.  Once the shops close (times vary by season) then the price drops to €10 per vehicle/up to 5 people.  Even if visitors enter by bicycle or foot, they must pay a reduced fee.  Seriously???

Upon looking at my trail map of the area, I saw that numerous hiking trails led to the Pont du Gard.  With gorgeous weather and plenty hours of daylight remaining we decided to hike in.  Not only was it a lovely hike, we were able to avoid the entrance fees. =)

First, we parked our motorhome at this free parking site.  Then we found the well-marked trailhead.  We ignored signs for Pont du Gard (we’d have to pay if we went that way), and hiked to Le Sablas instead.  From Le Sablas we easily made our way to Pont du Gard.  It took a bit over an hour from the parking lot to the aqueduct.IMG_1311

As we approached the aqueduct, we found ourselves hiking above or beside aqueduct ruins.  We had to wonder how many tourists made it out this far.IMG_1296

By the time the aqueduct came into view, the lighting was phenomenal, granting us a picture perfect view of the illuminated facade of the arches.IMG_1297

Because it was so late in the day, there were hardly any visitors.  All the shops had closed and all the employees had gone home.  We walked back to our motorhome via the normal road, enjoying a deep sunset stroll through a quaint French town.  Trees and vineyards lined the road, and in the distance a medieval town and its church tower beckoned us in the fading light.  Despite the number of preserved Roman ruins in the area, the charming landscapes and towns in Nimes were still oh so quintessentially French.

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Carcassonne

The medieval, walled city of Carcassonne is exactly what comes to mind when you think of classic fairytales.  With its crenellations, cone-shaped roof tops, and spiky turrets, Carcassonne poses dramatically for the classic panoramic shot from a distance.  Films have been shot in this fortified city, and even a popular board game bases itself in the setting of Carcassonne.  However, everyone knows about Carcassonne.  Reviewers and guidebooks warn that Carcassonne can be a tourist hell, as it attracts an annual 4+ million visitors!  I stressed over whether or not we should see Carcassonne on our way from Barcelona to The French Riviera, and in the end, we got a glimpse of the city.

Our brief visit to Carcassonne was worth the effort due to three reasons:

  1. May meant the shoulder season.
  2. We arrived at 3:30pm, after all the tour buses have left.
  3. We easily found free parking.  Parking around the city walls was a griping €20, and parking in the downtown area would have been a logistical nightmare.  Plenty of free parking existed in the residential neighborhoods just north of the medieval city, across the main street of Avenue du General Leclerc.

We arrived to a quiet Carcassonne, apparently a rare occurrence for the typically touristy city.  The massive parking lots were empty, and all lines were vacant.  As the sun was making its way down, we were able to observe the bright sun lighting up the city walls which made our tourist-free visit an enchanting one.  While strolling in and around the city was free, it cost €10 to enter the Château et Rempart. Naturally, we just enjoyed the fee-free areas.

Although the exterior was strikingly beautiful, I found the medieval interior too fabricated and catered toward tourists.  The lesser known, more authentic medieval town of Dinan in Brittany was absolutely more stunning and adorable than Carcassonne’s.IMG_1252

And finally, perhaps the best view of Carcassonne.  Visitors must cross the bridge on the western side of the city to catch this beautiful view, specifically right before sunset.
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Once again, we enjoyed another one of many day trips en route from one major city to the next.  I can’t imagine how hellish it might feel when the city is packed with tourists, but on a late afternoon in the shoulder season, it was glorious.

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Montserrat

Less than an hour’s drive, the monastery retreat to mountaintop Montserrat is perhaps the most popular day trip from Barcelona. With all the options of transportation (train, cable car, funicular, private car hire, and bus tours) it’s no wonder that this excursion is a touristy one. To the Catalonians and Catholic pilgrims the monastery is a significant site, and to the tourists like me the monastery’s setting of rock formations is a day trip of scenic hiking.

In order to experience Montserrat in peace, we opted out of the cable car and funicular. We could have driven up to the monastery and paid €6.50 to park in the crowded parking lot, but we opted out of that too. Instead, we parked at the bottom of the hill in Monistrol de Montserrat for free near the train station (Cremallera) and followed trail markers up to Montserrat.

View from where we parked (yep, we hiked to the top of those rocks!):IMG_1205

The climb from Monistrol de Montserrat to the monastery was well-marked and took us 1 hour and 10 minutes.

The funicular station at the top:IMG_1213

A Gaudi-style statue of a monk with a rosary:IMG_1236

In and around the monastery were long lines to see the Black Madonna, and hoards of tourists and their selfie sticks. We didn’t stay too long.

I looked forward to climbing the Stairway to Heaven, but unfortunately it was fenced off to prevent troublemakers like me from climbing it. Oh well.IMG_1221

After a brief peek around the monastery we continued our climb up to Montserrat’s highest peak, Sant Jeroni. This trail/footpath was well traveled and well marked, and incredibly popular. Rock formations at the top reminded us of national parks back in the U.S. Despite signs claiming a 1 hour and 45 minute ascent, we summited in 1 hour and 5 minutes—faster than our hike from Monistrol de Montserrat to the monastery! Keep in mind we were still incredibly exhausted/hungover from a weekend of partying in Barcelona.

From Monistrol de Montserrat to the monastery, and from the monastery to Sant Jeroni, we climbed over 1,000 meters in 2 hours and 15 minutes. Our descent took less than 2 hours. If you are reasonably healthy and fit, I recommend skipping the funicular and cable car. Go hiking instead! On a clear day like ours, you’d be able to gaze at the Mediterranean to the east, and the French snow-capped mountain range border to the north. It’s really the hiking, the rock formations, and the mountain top views over Catalonia that make this day trip worth it.

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Barcelona

We fell in love with Barcelona. I mean, how could we not? Beaches. City life. Perfect spring weather. Fantastic eats. Dance music and parties. Hospitable and laid back Spanish culture. And finally, Antonio Gaudi’s psychedelic architecture.

Several motorhome parking lots lied in the heart of the city but due to their hefty price tags of €30/night, we opted for the free motorhome parking lot 9 miles away in Colonia Guell. And unlike the expensive parking lots in the city, the free lot even had free water and dump! Although the nearest metro station (Colonia Guell, a Zone 2 stop) was a stone’s throw from the lot, we opted to walk the extra 10 minutes to the next station (Moli Nou) because it was a Zone 1 station. The shareable T10 metro pass (10 trips on 1 card) was only €9.95 for Zone 1 rides, a deal compared to the €19.95 T10 rides for Zone 2. Although it was a 45-minute to 1-hour commute from Colonial Guell to Barcelona proper, we couldn’t complain due to the free parking and <€1 rides. Plus, the commute made us feel like locals.

Not far from where we parked was Gaudi’s Crypt (€7 per person), one of his incomplete masterpieces. Few tourists venture out of Barcelona to spectate this lovely church/crypt, but those who do are rewarded with the rare serenity nonexistent in other Gaudi structures. Photography was once not allowed but recently that ban has been lifted. Columns resembling spider legs adorn the exterior, and a conch-like ceiling, intricate benches, and chiseled columns splash the interior with surreal beauty.

In Barcelona, Gaudi’s work can be seen throughout the city. I begin with two of his hallucinogenic residential buildings, Casa Amatller and Casa Batllo. Due to the high price tags to enter these small residences (a whopping €18 and €22!), we opted to enjoy these buildings from the outside.

Casa Amatller:

Casa Batllo (everyone’s favorite):

Gaudi’s most jaw-dropping and beloved piece, La Sagrada Familia, is still an ongoing masterpiece despite being under construction for over 100 years. Any photo of La Sagrada Familia without scaffolding is ‘shopped! Upon exiting the nearest metro station, one experiences a vertical sensory overload with the back of La Sagrada:

The façade, lit up at night:

To enter La Sagrada Familia costs €18 per person; to walk above between its tall spires is an additional €18, and tickets for the day sell out by morning. It is recommended to purchase tickets online to save time and money! Generally cathedrals throughout Europe look similar (if not the same) inside and out, but La Sagrada Familia is the exception. Nothing can compare to La Sagrada from the outside, but even more so on the inside. Up-close photos of the exterior and interior absolutely do no justice to its mind-blowing beauty. Best of all, because only a certain number of people can enter at any given time, there is never a shoulder-bumping, tourist-shoving experience within the massive cathedral.

In addition to the majestic cathedral and residential structures, Gaudi’s legacy included Park Guell, a large, outdoor park perched on top of a hill overlooking Barcelona and the Mediterranean. Like La Sagrada, tickets are available online for cheaper (€7 instead of €8) and sell out quickly during the day. Most of the park is actually free; it is only a section of the park that requires a ticket. Although twisty columns and brooding archways could be enjoyed in the free areas, the park’s iconic sites such as the mosaic lizard, benches, and gingerbread-like houses can only be seen upon paying the fee.

Aside from Gaudi’s masterpieces, Barcelona boasts several landmarks as well including an inactive bullring (bullfighting is banned from Barcelona—yay!) and a unique Arc de Triumph.

Strolling through the Gothic quarter takes one to the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia, the touristy floral street of La Rambla, and the lovely Rambla del Mar.

And as expected, nightlife was legendary. Nightclubs don’t open until midnight, but the party doesn’t really start until 3am. The metro runs 24 hours on Saturday, but because we partied on a Friday night, we caught the first train at 5am.IMG_20160430_034107

Last but definitely not least, the FOOD. Outside of major cities I always cook in the motorhome, but once in a major city, we indulge in the food. We were easily able to satisfy our pizza and Vietnamese food craving. Barcelona’s best pizza could be found at La Pizza del Sortidor and the best Vietnamese food could be found at Capitol de Vietnam. We ate pizza twice and Vietnamese food three times while in Barcelona!

To satisfy my sweet tooth, we scarfed down The World’s Best Chocolate Cake (from 2005) at Bubo for less than €5, and suis hot chocolate and churros at Catalonia’s oldest creamery, Granja M. Viader.

Even though Barcelona is a top European destination with friends back home raving and gushing about the city, we didn’t have any expectations for it.  Whether or not having expectations is key to falling in love with a city, it doesn’t matter with Barcelona.  You can’t help but fall in love with this very beautiful and livable city.

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Benidorm (Serra Gelada)

Breaking up the lengthy drive between Granada and Barcelona meant random short stops along the Spanish coast, which meant seeing more of tourist-free Spain.  Upon looking at the map, the coastal park of Serra Gelada caught my eye and we ended up spending some time in Benidorm and its park.  Unfortunately more time was needed to hike across the entire park (8 km, 4 hours, 1-way only), so we opted for a short walk instead.  Fortunately, there were still awesome views.

Walking through downtown Benidorm reminded us of a spring break getaway…for the Brits.  English pubs and young British people galore, dressed as if it was 25°C when it was really a brisk 17°C.  Casinos and numerous tacky skyscrapers added to the hoopla.  Had it been summer, I’m sure it would have felt like Mexico!

Here are just a few pictures from our short walk along the Serra Gelada coast.

A strong and healthy 71-year old Belgian man on holiday even hiked with us, leading the way and quickly scrambling up over rocks.  He even preferred the difficult path over the well-trodden path because it was more “sporty.”  He had been vacationing in Benidorm for 4 months, and spent everyday hiking in the area, off trails and up peaks.  His strength and enthusiasm for the outdoors was proof that age is nothing but a number and an inspiration to continue living the life the way that we do.

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